Sanghak Choeling Monastery
High on a forested ridge above Pelling, Sanghak Choeling Monastery sits quietly, looking out over the Himalayas. Built in the late 1600s, it’s one of Sikkim’s oldest monasteries, known to locals as the “place of secret spells.” Getting there takes a short uphill walk through oak and pine, but the reward is more than just the view - it’s the feeling of stepping into a world that hasn’t really rushed to change.
A Ridge with a View
The setting is half the story. The monastery crowns a ridge that gives you a clear sweep of Khangchendzonga on a good day, with Pemayangtse Monastery visible nearby. The climb itself is steep but refreshing, lined with prayer flags that shift in the wind. The forest feels alive - birdsong, crunch of leaves, maybe a rustle of something unseen - and by the time you reach the top, the air feels thinner, sharper, and strangely calming.
History Etched in Stone and Smoke
Founded in 1697 by Lama Lhatsun Chempo, Sanghak Choeling belongs to the Nyingma school of Tibetan Buddhism. Fires damaged it more than once, but each time the community rebuilt it. That resilience shows in the way the monastery still draws pilgrims and monks, especially during the monthly chants held on the 10th day of the Tibetan calendar.
It remains a male-only monastery, with traditions carefully preserved – from sacred relics said to belong to its founder, to rituals that continue without fuss or fanfare. Nearby, a centuries-old cremation ground adds another layer of meaning to the place. Life, death, continuity – it’s all quietly present here.
Art and Atmosphere
The monastery’s architecture isn’t grand, but it has a kind of understated gravity. Inside, clay statues of Padmasambhava, Sakyamuni, and Vajrasattva sit in stillness. The walls are alive with murals, including a detailed Wheel of Life that maps existence in vivid colors. The courtyard opens to a horizon of mountains – the kind of view that makes you pause without realizing you’ve stopped walking.
Things to Do While You’re Here
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Trek the path up - about 1.5 to 4 km, depending on where you start in Pelling.
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Catch a ritual - the chants carry beautifully in the mountain air.
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Study the murals - especially the Wheel of Life.
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Soak in the views - winter skies are especially clear.
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Explore nearby - Rabdentse ruins, Dubdi Monastery, and Khecheopalri Lake all fit naturally into the same journey.
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Visit the cremation ground – not exactly cheerful, but it offers perspective.
Staying Nearby
The monastery itself doesn’t offer rooms, but Pelling has plenty. From small family-run homestays where dinner feels like joining the household, to boutique hotels with panoramic windows facing the peaks – you’ll find something that suits your pace. Many hosts are happy to guide you up to the monastery, turning it into more of an experience than just a walk.
Practical Notes
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Getting There: Pelling is around 135 km from Gangtok. Bagdogra Airport and New Jalpaiguri Station are the closest major entry points, with taxis and jeeps onward.
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When to Go: March to June for lush greenery; September to February for crisp skies and snow on the peaks. The monastery is open daily, 8 AM to 5 PM.
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Tips: Wear good shoes, carry water, and remember that photography inside isn’t allowed. Modest clothing is expected. Allow 2-3 hours to make the trek and visit without rushing.